Summer-and-Winter to Taqueté
You can thread your loom with a Summer-and-Winter design and—by varying the treadling you use to weave it off—create different looks in the finished textile.
This bookmark sampler illustrates the differences between different treadlings. It can serve as a visual reminder and keep your place in the latest blockbuster novel.
Summer and Winter is a block weave. This means that you can create designs by building up blocks of pattern against a background cloth.
Summer and Winter uses four warp threads for each unit of design. These four threads comprise both tie-down and pattern threads. The tie-down warp threads do not create the design, but are necessary to lock the pattern weft into place and prevent long floats in the finished cloth. Typically, the tie-down warps are threaded on shafts 1 and 2, with the other shafts of the loom being free to create the block patterning. For example, you would thread shafts 1-3-2-3 for block A, 1-4-2-4 for block B, 1-5-2-5 for block C, and so on.
A pattern unit may be repeated in the threading or threaded in any sequence without the need for incidental threads between pattern units. (An incidental thread sometimes needs to be added with Crackle, Overshot or Sweedish Lace when combining blocks to maintain an alternating tabby.)
The grouping of these pattern-block units creates the design. This is often represented in a short-hand notation called a profile draft. In a profile draft, design block units are represented by a single square, regardless of the weave structure (and number of threads) of the design units. This high-level view of the design abstracts out the weave structure and makes it possible to represent the design in a way that can be translated to a number of different weave structures.
For example, the profile draft of the Summer-and-Winter sampler bookmark would be the following. If you compare this to the threading drafts later in this article, you will see that each block in the pattern draft, represents a four-thread unit in the weave draft. (Note: Other weave structures may have more or less than four threads in one design unit.)
As a weave structure, Summer and Winter makes economic use of the number of shafts available. The maximum number of pattern blocks available for your design is two less than the number of shafts available. This is because two shafts are use for the tie-down threads. For example, on an eight-shaft loom you can have up to six pattern blocks.
Note: In weaving Summer-and-Winter (with four ends per block) each weft needs to cross the warp four times in sequence to complete the block. Thus, with two shuttles (one each for the pattern and tabby wefts) it takes eight picks to complete the block.
There are four ways to weave Summer and Winter with alternating tie-downs. The 'O' and 'X' treadlings are the most traditional.
You can extend this list of possibilities for Summer and Winter by adding multiple colors of pattern weft (polychrome) or by weaving without a tabby weft at all (Taqueté.)
Dukagång
The easiest to begin with is Dukagång, a Swedish tapestry technique in which the weft goes over three and under one warp ends, always in the same shed. This creates vertical lines in the pattern area. The tie-down is shaft 1 for all pattern sheds.
Note: When weaving the pattern block lift all of the shafts where the pattern will not appear when weaving on a jack or rising shed loom. Another way of saying the same thing is "lift all but" where you want the pattern to show.
| Pick # | Pattern | Weft |
|---|---|---|
| Pick 1 | Lift 1 + pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 2 | Lift 1-2 (a tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 3 | Lift 1 + same pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 4 | Lift all the pattern shafts (3-4-5-6-7-8) (b tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 5 | Lift 1 + same pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 6 | Lift 1-2 (a tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 7 | Lift 1 + same pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 8 | Lift all the pattern shafts (3+) (b tabby) | tabby |
Download as WIF file
Note: You will notice that the drafts in this article do not specify a tie-up. They are the lift-plan version of the draft, suitable for weaving on a table or dobby loom. To convert these drafts to the treadled version, you can assign a treadle to each lift variation. Note that some patterns may require more treadles than your loom has. A table or dobby loom is recommended.
Alternating tie-downs
The second variation is alternating tie-downs. The first pattern pick will use the tie-down thread on shaft 1 and the second pattern pick will use the tie-down thread on shaft 2.
| Pick # | Pattern | Weft |
|---|---|---|
| Pick 1 | Lift 1 + pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 2 | Lift 1-2 (a tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 3 | Lift 2 + same pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 4 | Lift all the pattern shafts (3+) (b tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 5 | Lift 1 + same pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 6 | Lift 1-2 (a tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 7 | Lift 2 + same pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 8 | Lift all the pattern shafts (3+) (b tabby) | tabby |
'O' or Birdseye
The 'O' or birdseye treadling weaves the tie-down threads in a 1-2-2-1 sequence.
| Pick # | Pattern | Weft |
|---|---|---|
| Pick 1 | Lift 1 + pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 2 | Lift 1-2 (a tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 3 | Lift 2 + same pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 4 | Lift all the pattern shafts (3+) (b tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 5 | Lift 2 + same pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 6 | Lift 1-2 (a tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 7 | Lift 1 + same pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 8 | Lift all pattern shafts (3+) (b tabby) | tabby |
'X'
The 'X' treadling reverses the tie-down sequence of the 'O' pattern to weave the tie-down threads in a 2-1-1-2 sequence.
| Pick # | Pattern | Weft |
|---|---|---|
| Pick 1 | Lift 2 + pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 2 | Lift 1-2 (a tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 3 | Lift 1 + same pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 4 | Lift all the pattern shafts (3+) (b tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 5 | Lift 1 + same pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 6 | Lift 1-2 (a tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 7 | Lift 2 + same pattern shafts | pattern |
| Pick 8 | Lift all the pattern shafts (3+) (b tabby) | tabby |
Summer and Winter Polychrome ('O' treadling)
Polychrome means more than one color. In this case more than one color is used to weave the pattern areas. The shuttle sequence become: pattern A thread, pattern B thread, tabby.
Again, each shuttle crosses the warp four times to complete the block, making the treadling sequence twelve picks to complete the block. The following treadling sequence is for the 'O' (or birdseye) treadling.
| Pick # | Pattern | Weft |
|---|---|---|
| Pick 1 | Lift 1 + A pattern shafts | pattern A |
| Pick 2 | Lift 1 + B pattern shafts | pattern B |
| Pick 3 | Lift 1-2 (a tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 4 | Lift 2 + A pattern shafts | pattern A |
| Pick 5 | Lift 2 + B pattern shafts | pattern B |
| Pick 6 | Lift all pattern shafts (3+) (b tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 7 | Lift 2 + A pattern shafts | pattern A |
| Pick 8 | Lift 2 + B pattern shafts | pattern B |
| Pick 9 | Lift 1-2 (a tabby) | tabby |
| Pick 10 | Lift 1 + A pattern shafts | pattern A |
| Pick 11 | Lift 1 + B pattern shafts | pattern B |
| Pick 12 | Lift all the pattern shafts (3+) (b tabby) | tabby |
Download as WIF file
If a third pattern color is added, then the pattern C weft is woven after pattern B each time bringing the total number of picks to complete a block to sixteen.
When a pattern color will not show on the surface for a sequence, lift all of the pattern shafts plus 1 or 2 for the tie-down in sequence. Sometimes with several pattern colors more than one will not show on the surface in the same sequence. Try to throw them in the same shed. It is best if you can plan the pattern color order so that a weft that seldom shows on the surface can share a "no pattern" shed with another "no pattern" weft while remaining in sequence.
In working with multiple pattern colors I have discovered that if the shuttle sequence is changed the background color changes slightly. If the blocks don’t square, try using a heavier or lighter weft. If your pattern blocks are still not weaving up square, you can resley the warp to a tighter or looser sett.
Taqueté
Taqueté is a weft-faced weave that does not use a tabby weft. It is woven on the same threading as Summer and Winter, and uses at least two pattern wefts: one for the design and one for the background.
The background-pattern weft is woven instead of a tabby. Since the tabby weft is no longer present to hold the fabric together, the design and background wefts must alternate.
Note: All pattern shafts must be woven as a pattern block at least once during each pattern sequence, or those threads that are not woven will appear as floats either on the face or the back of the cloth.
| Pick # | Pattern | Weft |
|---|---|---|
| Pick 1 | Lift 1 + A pattern shafts | pattern A |
| Pick 2 | Lift 1 + B pattern shafts | pattern B |
| Pick 3 | Lift 2 + A pattern shafts | pattern A |
| Pick 4 | Lift 2 + B pattern shafts | pattern B |
| Pick 5 | Lift 1 + A pattern shafts | pattern A |
| Pick 6 | Lift 1 + B pattern shafts | pattern B |
| Pick 7 | Lift 2 + A pattern shafts | pattern A |
| Pick 8 | Lift 2 + B pattern shafts | pattern B |
If weaving with more than two pattern colors, continue in the same sequence as when weaving Summer-and-Winter polychrome.
Pattern blocks of one color can also be woven in pattern blocks of another color, creating a third color with the combination of the first two colors. The colors that are carried on the back combine to create beautiful blends of color on the back.
As a note of interest, Taqueté is often used for weaving rugs.
Project details
Weave a sampler to try out the various weaving strategies and patterns and create a useful bookmark in the process.
Equipment
- An eight-shaft loom. A table or dobby loom is recommended.
- 12- or 15-dent reed
- Raddle (Optional. You can use a reed to spread the warp, though it's a bit more work.)
- At least three small shuttles or knitting bobbins.
Note: The drafts in this article do not specify a tie-up. They are the lift-plan version of the draft, suitable for weaving on a table or dobby loom. To convert these drafts to the treadled version, you can assign a treadle to each lift variation. Some patterns may require more treadles than a standard eight-shaft loom has. For this reason, a table or dobby loom is recommended for this project.
Warp
White cotton/polyester-blend sewing thread (100% cotton sewing thread is not strong enough to use as warp.) Wind sixty-four ends at least two yards in length.
Note: The draft calls for 60 working ends. I recommend warping an extra four ends to use to double the selvedge threads on either side of the warp. This adds strength to the selvedges and is useful when working in fine threads.
Sett
45 to 48 ends per inch (epi).
Weft
Various colors of embroidery floss. Use a single strand of white for tabby weft, and three strands of red for pattern weft.
A total of four strands of embroidery floss usually squares a block. Thus, when weaving Summer and Winter use three strands of embroidery floss for the pattern weft and a single strand of embroidery floss for the tabby weft. With the Summer and Winter Polychrome, I used an additional two strands of embroidery floss for the second pattern weft. For the Taqueté use two strands of embroidery floss for each pattern color.
Warping
For more information about how to warp with fine threads, see Lillian's previous article, Summer-and-Winter Bookmark.
Weaving
In order to have your heart appear right side up, begin reading the draft from the bottom and work up.
To keep track of where you are in the pattern, use a straight edge or ruler to cover the lines above. This means that what shows below the ruler is what you have woven and is showing on your loom.
I find it helpful to begin with both shuttles on the same side of the loom. With the Summer and Winter you will need to lock your wefts some of the time. When you weave the Taqueté the sequence will take care of locking your wefts.
Begin and end each bookmark with four shots of tabby (1-2 = a tabby), and (3-4-5-6-7-8 = b tabby) in your background color.
In addition to the heart patterns above, you can get creative with the blocks in the profile draft to weave other designs on the same threading. Below are some variations to get you started. Even more fun would be designing your own!
Note: The weave drafts below show the Taquete lift plan. As you learned above, you can also weave them with various Summer-and-Winter lift plans.
Flower Taquete
This "flower" pattern uses simple blocks to create a stylized floral design. It is a common design in traditional textiles.
Polychrome Flower Taquete
This flower pattern shares the basic symmetry of the proceeding pattern, but its petals are more refined and it uses multiple pattern colors to accent the center of the design and the petals.
Butterfly Taquete
This design illustrates how much range you have when designing with blocks. It uses the same threading as the heart and flowers, yet produces a very different motif.
Finishing
To finish the end and keep them from raveling, use a small amount of glue on the tabby at both ends on the backside.
The glue I use is Gel Medium. It is available at art supply stores in a paste form. I prefer the medium weight. The lighter weight has more water in it and "bleeds" through the cloth. The heavier makes the cloth less flexible. It does change the color of the cloth on the back a bit.
Lillian Whipple has been weaving since 1971. In 1990, she received her COE-W from the Handweaver's Guild of America and is a Master Weaver. Her in-depth study was "By a Fine Silk Thread."
For the past fifteen years, she has chaired the Fine-Threads study group for Complex Weavers.
Photo Credit: Photos by Grey Whipple